The anatomy of a shoe
Here is a list of the main components of which a typical shoe may comprise. Some of these components may have alternative names and not all shoes will have all of these parts.
The components of the underside (main sole) of a shoe
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Sole – this is the underside (bottom) of the shoe that comes into contacts the ground. It can be made from leather or a manmade material and it usually has a separate elevated heel.
Welt – this is the connecting point between the sole and the upper and it is normally in the form of a thin strip of material. The feather is a name given to the junction of the upper and the sole.
Heel – this is the elevated block at the rear of the sole that lifts the back of the foot so that the base of the heel is above the toes.
Top piece – this is the part of the heel that comes into contact with the ground.
Breast – this is the section of the heel under the arch and it faces forwards.
The components of the upper of a shoe
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Upper – this comprises all of the parts of the shoe that are above the sole, i.e. they cover the foot. They can be leather or man-made fabrics.
Top line – this is the top finished edge of the upper (where the foot enters the shoe).
Insole – this is the protective and padded lining that sits on top of the structural sole and it comes into direct contact with the foot. It is normally contoured and padded for comfort.
Lining – this is the internal smooth, soft and padded surface that lines the inside of the upper. It should be seamless, contoured and offer padding where necessary.
Counter (stiffener) – this is a stiffened (structural) section that runs up the back of the shoe from the main sole to the top line. It supports the back of the heel. A good counter should be firm (not flexible) and in some exercise and walking shoes it can have an extended top line.
Quarter – this covers the rear and sides of the shoe up to the vamp. The counter may be part of (rather than a separate component of) the vamp in some shoe designs.
Vamp – this is the part of the shoe that extends from the front of the shoe (or the toe box) to the quarter. The quarter and the vamp may be a single piece of material in some shoes. The vamp will usually start directly behind the toe cap (or toe box).
Toe cap (or box) – this is the front section of the upper that covers the toes and makes a shaped toe box. If a shoe has a quarter and a toe box the vamp will be a narrow.
Puff – this is a support zone inside the toe section of the upper that gives the front of the shoe its shape.
Shank – this is a part of the shoe that sits under the arch of the foot and runs from the heel to the outsole. It supports the arch of the foot and provides structure to the shoe. The shank can be metal or made from a manmade material.
Tongue – this is found below the shoe laces of a lace-up shoe. The tongues functions by distributing pressure and providing cushioning between the foot and the laces.
Throat – this is the opening where the foot enters the shoe.
Eyelets – these are the small holes that take the shoe laces and they run in pairs on both side of the two quarters.
Other considerations
Other factors to be aware of in the anatomy of a shoe are the materials from which it is manufactured.
Shoes can be made from natural materials like leather, manmade fabrics, or a mix of natural and synthetic materials. Which ever is the case, the shoe should have the ability to shape and adapt itself to the wearer (wearing-in) and to provide comfort and support.
For many shoes breathability (wicking) is important. Feet get warm and fabrics that allow water vapour to escape keep shoes comfortable even when the feet are hot. Materials like Gor-tex, Coolmax and other wicking fabrics can be used in shoes (and socks) and they can help manage the micro environment in which the shoes house the feet.
Fasteners are another critical shoe construction feature. Shoe laces do not always maintain a constant and evenly distributed pressure and elasticised fasteners have no controllable means of adjustment. This means that multiple hook and loop (Velcro) fasteners offer the best and most adjustable fit for orthopedic or comfort shoes.
A final feature is the tread and firmness (or softness) of the sole and this should be considered in the light of the shoe’s anticipated activity. E.g. Outdoor walking shoes, that cover rough terrain, need good gripping soles that can absorb shocks and uneven surfaces whilst still giving back feedback to the wearer. A house shoe on the other hand would not require any of these characteristics.
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